One of the areas most frequented by the yamabushi, or mountain practitioners, of Shugendo Buddhism were the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan in the Yamagata prefecture of northern Honshu. While most probably venerated in pre-historic times, the three mountains of Haguro (419 meters), Gassan (1980 meters), and Yudono (1504 meters) trace their historical sanctity to an imperial prince of the early 7th century. The prince renounced his title and position, took the name of Kokai, and became a wandering mountain hermit. While on a beach in the Dewa province, he saw an enormous black bird with three legs that led him first to Mt. Haguro and then to the other two holy peaks. Kokai stayed the rest of his years upon Haguro, where his imperial grave is maintained to this day. Mt. Haguro is the seat of one the two main Shugendo orders and the wooded peak has some of the most massive and beautiful temples in all of Japan. Bus transportation is available yet most pilgrims prefer the traditional footpath leading to the summit.
Beginning near the 600 year old, five-storied pagoda, the path winds its way through an enchanted forest of ancient cedars and cryptomerias while ascending 2,446 finely sculpted stone steps. Atop the mountain is the shrine of Gassai-den which houses the deities of the three mountains, Tsukiyomi-no-Mikoto, Oyamatsumi-no-Mikoto, and Ideha-no-Mikoto. After visiting Haguro, white-robed pilgrims trek upward through the mountain forests to the shrines of Gassan and Yudono. The deity of Yudono lives, not in a building, but in a hot water fall. Pilgrims take off their shoes, and some their clothes, to bathe in the sacred cascade. The three sacred peaks attract pilgrims during spring, summer, and fall, with the largest Haguro festival being held on July 15.
